Formats and the long term
Keeping them safe

Photo file formats, checking files, and moving to new drives

What HEIC, JPEG, PNG, TIFF and raw files are, why the originals stay as they came, how to check once a year that the files still open, and when to move to a new drive.

Start here Essentials

For a first pass, this chapter asks you to know which kinds of files your library holds, leave the originals alone, record how old each drive is, and run the yearly check once now. Nothing gets converted.

  1. Find which formats your library holds. HEIC, JPEG, raw, scans: read the letters at the end of the file names (the formats).
  2. Leave the originals as they are. Make JPEG copies only when you share (HEIC, JPEG).
  3. Write the year each drive was bought on the backup sheet. Its move-by year is five years later, or sooner at the first sign of trouble (moving to a new drive).
  4. Open ten photos from your oldest copy. Spread them across the years, with one video (checking the files).
  5. Put the yearly check in your calendar and on the routine sheet. Same date each year (the yearly check).

Minimum time: about 45 minutes. Done when: the formats are on the plan sheet, each drive's year is on the backup sheet, and ten photos opened from the oldest copy.

The formats in a family library Understand

A file format is the way a file's contents are written down, so that a program knows how to read it back. The file extension, the letters after the last period in a file name (IMG_4021.HEIC, IMG_4021.JPG), usually tells you the format. Look at the names in a folder you exported or on the computer. Where a phone or computer hides extensions, its file information shows the kind of file; the place to look differs by device, so check your own.

Formats differ in one way that matters most here. A lossy format makes a file smaller by throwing away detail the eye is unlikely to miss, and every time the picture is saved again, more goes. A lossless format makes a file smaller, or not, without losing anything. Principle

FormatWhat makes itLossy or losslessThis manual's advice
HEIC (.heic)iPhones on the High Efficiency setting, since 2017LossyKeep as it came; share JPEG copies
JPEG (.jpg, .jpeg)Most cameras and Android phones, iPhones on Most Compatible, scanners, chat appsLossyKeep as it came; edit a copy
PNG (.png)Screenshots, some editing appsLosslessKeep as it came
TIFF (.tif, .tiff)Scanners; the master format for scans in Prints, slides and negativesLossless (usually)Keep as the master; share JPEG copies
Camera raw (.nef, .cr3, .arw and others)Cameras set to save raw, often beside a JPEGThe sensor's data, before processingKeep beside its JPEG, same name
DNG and Apple ProRAW (.dng)Some cameras and phones; ProRAW on some iPhonesRaw data in an openly documented formatKeep as it came

The rows come from the Library of Congress's format descriptions: HEIC, PNG (all of its compression is lossless), TIFF, camera raw, DNG and ProRAW, which is built on DNG. The formats table adds each archive's rating and the sources. Write the formats you found on the plan sheet's "formats in the library" line, for example "HEIC, JPEG, MOV; TIFF scans".

What the archives say, in short: the Library of Congress's Recommended Formats Statement for 2025 to 2026 prefers TIFF, JPEG 2000, PNG and JPEG for photographs, accepts DNG and camera raw, and does not list HEIC (LoC's Recommended Formats, still images). It is written for published material the Library acquires, not as advice to families. The National Archives' preservation plans rate HEIC moderate risk and say that if a HEIC file can be easily rendered, it is recommended to leave it as it is (NARA's Digital Preservation Framework). Neither tells a family to convert its photos. The side-by-side table is under Go deeper.

HEIC: leave it as it is

HEIC is the High Efficiency Image format with HEVC compression. Apple made it the iPhone's default with iOS 11 in 2017, according to the Library of Congress. Apple says HEIF and HEVC compress better than JPEG and H.264 while keeping the same visual quality, which is Apple's claim (Apple's Using HEIF or HEVC media). Phone videos follow the same setting: HEVC on High Efficiency, H.264 on Most Compatible.

This manual's default: keep every HEIC original as it came, make JPEG copies only for sharing, and change the iPhone's camera setting only if a device in your household cannot open HEIC. Convention The reasons are the National Archives' advice to leave a HEIC that opens easily, and the fact that converting one lossy file into another lossy format (HEIC to JPEG) compresses the picture a second time.

The iPhone setting, as Apple describes it: Settings > Camera > Formats. High Efficiency takes HEIC photos and HEVC video; Most Compatible takes JPEG and H.264. Apple says the setting applies to new photos and videos only, so changing it converts nothing taken before. Product-specific

Where HEIC turns into JPEG on its own

  • Sharing. Apple says that photos sent by AirDrop, Messages or email to a device that does not support HEIC might be converted to JPEG. In iOS 27 the Share sheet's Options offer Automatic, Current (no conversion) and Most Compatible, which may convert to JPEG (Apple's Share photos and videos on iPhone). Sharing through iCloud Photos keeps the original format. Sharing photos covers quality when you send.
  • Copying by cable to a computer. Apple says photos imported by USB into Photos, Image Capture or a PC might be converted to JPEG, and gives a setting to stop it: Settings > Apps > Photos, then Keep Originals near the bottom. On an older iOS version the menu may differ; check your own iPhone.

Can every device in the house open HEIC?

Test it: copy one HEIC photo to each computer and tablet in the household and open it. Test it The Library of Congress's HEIC entry, last updated in 2021, said Windows 10 then needed separately installed codecs; we found no current Microsoft page, so the test is the evidence. If one household device cannot open HEIC, there are two choices, in this order: give that device JPEG copies when it needs them, or switch the iPhone to Most Compatible for new photos. Either way, the HEIC originals stay.

JPEG: keep the original, edit a copy

JPEG is the most widely readable photo format, and it is lossy. What wears a JPEG down is narrower than many people think. The Library of Congress's blog explains that opening a JPEG changes nothing; the loss comes when you modify a JPEG and save it, which compresses it again, and after several rounds of editing and saving the damage starts to show (The Signal, What People Are Asking About Personal Digital Archiving). Principle

What you do to a JPEGDoes the picture lose quality?
Open it, view it, zoom inNo
Copy it, move it, back it upNo; the copy is the same file
Add a caption, keywords or a dateNo; the post says these change the file's header, not the pixels
Crop, brighten or retouch, then save over itYes; it is compressed again, and the original is gone
Convert it to TIFF or PNGNothing lost, nothing gained; the post says there is no benefit if you will not edit it

So the rule, as the post puts it, is to leave the original alone and make edits on a copy saved under a new name. Convention Apple says iCloud Photos stores your originals so you can revert an edit; a file you edit and save in another program on a computer may have no such net. Converting a JPEG to TIFF stops later loss on that copy and restores nothing that was lost before.

Raw files

Camera raw files hold what the camera's sensor recorded before the camera turned it into a JPEG. Each camera maker has its own raw formats. The Library of Congress says all raw formats need special software to turn them into usable pictures, and that because the formats are proprietary and undocumented there is a risk a given one will not be supported in the long term, especially if its maker goes out of business. Product-specific It still accepts camera raw in its recommended formats. DNG (Digital Negative) is Adobe's openly documented raw format; Apple's ProRAW is built on it.

This manual's default for a camera that saves raw and JPEG pairs: keep both, in the same folder, with the names the camera gave them, so IMG_2041.NEF and IMG_2041.JPG stay together. Convention The JPEG is the picture anyone can open; the raw file is what you go back to for a better print. Folders and file names explains why renaming can split a pair. Include one raw file in each yearly check, opened in the software you use now. The National Archives' plan to turn some raw formats into DNG is under Go deeper.

Checking that the files still open

A file can stop opening without anyone touching it: a drive develops a bad spot, a copy is cut off halfway, a program that read an old format is gone. Some of this is silent. The Library of Congress says to check your photos at least once a year to make sure you can read them (Library of Congress, Keeping Personal Digital Photographs). That is the yearly check, and its simplest form is opening a sample.

This manual's sample: ten photos from your oldest copy, spread across the years, with at least one video and, if you have them, one raw file and one scan. Convention Open each at full size. If one will not open, open the same file from another copy; if that one opens, replace the bad file from the good copy and check more files from the bad one. Write the date and the result on the test sheet of the backup page. The test in Backups opens one photo from every copy; this check goes deeper into the oldest.

Checksums, in one paragraph

A checksum is a short string of letters and digits calculated from a file's contents. The Digital Preservation Coalition calls it a digital fingerprint: the smallest change to the file changes the checksum completely (DPC's Fixity and checksums). Fixity is the DPC's word for the assurance that a file has not changed. A Library of Congress post shows two pictures that look identical, two bits apart, with completely different checksums (The Signal, Protect Your Data: File Fixity). Opening a photo catches a file that is broken; a checksum also catches a file that changed without looking different. One cause is bit rot, the slow decay of stored data. A household can do without checksums; the steps for making and comparing them with a computer's own tools are under Go deeper.

Drives, discs, cards and cloud accounts

The Library of Congress puts it plainly: all digital storage media have a short life. It names three things that shorten it: how durable the medium is, how it is used, stored and handled, and obsolescence, when computers no longer have the drive, connector or software to read it (LoC's How Long Will Digital Storage Media Last?). Principle That paper gives no years for any medium. The figures that do exist each measure something narrow.

MediumWhat the sources sayWhat the figure measures
Recordable CDs, DVDs and Blu-raysThe Canadian Conservation Institute: from a couple of years to more than 200, depending on the disc type. NIST's own test estimated one DVD-R type at 30 years; manufacturers then claimed 100 to 200 years or more.Accelerated aging in heat and humidity, by disc type; a label rarely tells you which type you have
Hard drives in useBackblaze's data-center fleet: 1.36 percent failed in 2025Drives running all day in racks, not a drive on a shelf
SSDs and hard drives left unpoweredNIST's 2022 table: under 1 year (SSD) and under 2 years (hard drive), "not recommended" for archivesA conservative floor for evidence handlers, built partly on secondary sources
USB flash drives and SD cardsNo authoritative figure foundNothing; we give no number

So this manual does not pick a medium by its lifespan. Whatever holds your copies, the protection is the same: more than one copy, a yearly check, and a move to new media on a schedule. Discs from the 2000s, like the CD-Rs many families have, are a reason to copy the photos off while they still read. Getting photos out covers reading them.

Cloud accounts last while they are used and paid. Google says photos might be deleted if you do not use Google Photos for two years or more, or if you are over your storage limit for two years, and that it emails at least three months before (Google's Photos activity and storage page). Amazon deletes files from an account with no activity for two years, after notice (Amazon's File Retention Policy). Microsoft says it might delete a OneDrive that has been over its limit for six months (Microsoft's storage quotas page). Product-specific Signing in to every photo account once a year is on the routine; services compared lists each rule with its date.

Limits

Media lifespans are estimates from accelerated tests and conservative tables, not promises, and this manual does not predict which formats will open in twenty years. It does not cover recovering files from a failed drive. Our advice, if a drive with your only copy of something fails: stop using it, do not run repair tools on it, and ask a data recovery service.

The yearly check, and moving to a new drive

The Library of Congress gives two intervals for personal photos: check your photos at least once a year, and create new media copies every five years or when necessary to avoid data loss. This manual uses both. Convention Each drive gets a move-by year: the year it was bought plus five, or sooner at the first sign of trouble. Write both years on the copies sheet of the backup page. If you do not know when a drive was bought, our suggestion is to treat its move-by as the next yearly check. Preference

Signs of trouble, by this manual's list: the drive is not recognized, or only sometimes; copying to or from it fails or slows to a crawl; a file that opened before will not open now; the drive has been dropped or got wet. Convention Any one of them means copy everything to a new drive from a good copy, then test the new drive.

Each yearEvery five years, or at the first sign of trouble
Open ten photos, a video, a raw file and a scan from the oldest copyCopy the library to a new drive and test it
Open one photo from every copy (the test)Check that every format in the library still opens on the devices you have
Compare drive years with their move-by yearsRetire the old drive only after the new one passes the test
Sign in to every photo account

Put the date in your calendar and tick the lines on the routine sheet, which carries these items under "Each year" and "Every five years". Routines and handing on builds the whole yearly routine around them. The Digital Preservation Coalition gives shorter intervals for some media; they are under Go deeper.

Prints: for looking at, not for keeping the files

A printed set of the photos that matter most is a fine way to see them and to share them with people who do not look at screens. This manual does not count it as a copy of the library or as the preservation copy. Convention The Northeast Document Conservation Center says color prints made from digital files "are not considered preservation quality" (NEDCC's Creating Long-Lasting Inkjet Prints). The Image Permanence Institute's storage table rates both traditional color photographs and inkjet prints as likely to suffer significant damage at room temperature, and it recommends cold storage for inkjet prints (IPI's Guide to Preservation of Digitally-Printed Images). A print also keeps no file name, date or caption you do not write on it.

If you print, NEDCC says pigment inks are more stable than dye inks, and that office paper contains ingredients that eventually destroy the image. Store prints in photo-safe enclosures in a cool, dry room, as Prints, slides and negatives describes, and keep the files and their copies as the record. One library that disagrees is under Go deeper.

Format tables, checksums, media figures and printing compared Go deeper

The archives' format lists side by side

FormatLibrary of Congress (2025 to 2026)NARA transfer tablesNARA preservation plan (October 2026)
TIFFPreferredPreferred for born-digital photosLow risk; retain
JPEGPreferredAcceptable for born-digital photos; not on the list for scans of printsLow risk; retain
PNGPreferredAcceptableLow risk; retain
DNGAcceptableAcceptableLow risk; retain
Camera rawAcceptableNot listedCanon CR3 and Nikon NEF: moderate risk; transform to DNG
HEICNot listedNot listedModerate risk; leave as it is if it renders easily

The transfer tables are what federal agencies send to the National Archives (NARA's Tables of File Formats). NARA's HEIC entry calls the format "de facto proprietary" because of Apple's implementation, and says conversion can be considered once features such as image sequences are accounted for. NARA's plan to turn some raw formats into DNG is what an archive does with thousands of files from many cameras; it is not advice to families, and Leo's case below keeps his raw files as they came.

Making and comparing checksums with the computer's own tools

Both Windows and macOS can calculate a SHA-256 checksum without extra software, and the same file gives the same SHA-256 value on either. Product-specific

  • Windows (PowerShell). Microsoft's page for the Get-FileHash command says it uses SHA-256 by default, that changing even one character in a file changes the hash, and that identical hashes mean identical contents (Microsoft Learn, Get-FileHash). Open PowerShell and type Get-FileHash, a space and the file's path, for example Get-FileHash E:\2019\IMG_0412.HEIC. The page says the path accepts wildcards, so Get-FileHash E:\2019\* lists every file in the folder.
  • Mac (Terminal). Apple documents the shasum command in its Apple Business guide, for a software package: open Terminal, type shasum -a 256 and a space, drag the file in from a Finder window, and press Return to get a 64-character hash (Apple Business, Create a package). The command reads any file; Apple's page shows one file at a time.

To compare two copies, run the command on the same file in each copy and compare the two strings. Microsoft's examples print the letters as capitals, and other tools may use small letters; the letters and digits are what match. A mismatch means one copy has changed: open both, keep the one that opens properly, and replace the other from it, which the DPC calls data scrubbing. A checksum changes when a file is changed on purpose too, such as an edit or a caption written into the file, so make the reference list after the library settles.

Which algorithm? The DPC says MD5 is sufficient for catching accidental damage; Microsoft says MD5 and SHA1 are no longer secure against deliberate attack and suit simple change checks. For a family library, either answer works; SHA-256 has the advantage of being the default in both tools. How often: NDSA's 2014 guide says to check when files arrive, when they move between storage, and at intervals that "could be monthly, quarterly, or yearly" (NDSA's Checking Your Digital Content), and that each check also wears the media. The DPC suggests six months for systems built on hard drives. Our yearly check is the household version.

Disc figures, by type

The Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI Notes 19/1, revised 2019) gives average longevity by disc type, based only on temperature and humidity; in air with pollutants, any disc without a gold layer would likely rate lower (CCI, Longevity of Recordable CDs, DVDs and Blu-rays, on canada.ca).

Disc type (CCI's wording)Average longevity
CD-R, phthalocyanine dye, gold metal layerMore than 100 years
CD-R, phthalocyanine dye, silver alloy layer; DVD-R, gold layer50 to 100 years
CD-R, cyanine or azo dye, silver alloy layer; DVD+R, silver alloy layer20 to 50 years
DVD-R, silver alloy layer; BD-R, non-dye, gold layer10 to 20 years
BD-R, single or dual layer; DVD+R dual layer; DVD-RW5 to 10 years

CCI adds that ignoring its storage guidelines can mean failure in as little as 2 to 10 years, and it suggests testing samples every 5 to 10 years under good storage, more often under poor. Its storage range is 20 to 50 percent relative humidity and minus 10 to 23°C. It also asks for three copies on at least two types of storage, one off-site. NIST's 2003 guide reported the manufacturers' 100 to 200 years and NIST's own estimate of 30 years for one DVD-R type at 25°C and 50 percent humidity (NIST SP 500-252). The Library of Congress found all the CDs and most of the DVD products in its tests above 30 years, with wide variation between products (LoC's CD-R and DVD-R longevity research). NIST's 2022 table gives M-DISC "at least 100 years", citing a 2009 test run in a vendor context and a 2012 French test; we did not reach an independent test, and CCI does not cover M-DISC.

SSDs, hard drives and flash

NIST IR 8387 (2022) is written for people who keep digital evidence. Its table defines longevity as how long unused media can be expected to be readable "with very high confidence", says most media will last longer, and lists SSDs under 1 year and hard drives under 2 years unpowered, citing a 2014 secondary source (NIST IR 8387). The same document's text says hard disk copies should go to new media every 20 years, which does not sit easily with its table. The one-year SSD figure traces to an industry rating: JEDEC's client SSD class must keep data for one year powered off at 30°C after the drive has absorbed its rated lifetime of writes (JEDEC SSD specifications explained). That describes a worn-out drive, not a new one. JEDEC's figure does not cover USB flash drives or SD cards, and we found no authoritative figure for either.

The DPC's shorter intervals

The Digital Preservation Coalition's report on personal archiving (2015) says to check media health at least once a year, to move files on flash drives to a new flash drive every one to two years, and to consider moving files on an external hard drive to new media every three to four years (DPC Technology Watch Report 15-01). Those are stricter than the Library of Congress's five years. If your copies sit on flash drives, the DPC's interval is the cautious one. The second copy is what covers a drive that fails before its date.

Printing as preservation: the other view

The State Library of Queensland, in Australia, says an archival-quality print, made with chemically stable inks and paper, is considered the best way to preserve a digital image, and it prefers pigment inks and the printer maker's matched paper (State Library of Queensland, Digital prints). It is the only library source we found that frames printing this way. Wilhelm Imaging Research, an independent lab, publishes print permanence ratings by product and reports that the most and least light-stable current inkjet inks differ by more than 2000 to 1 (Wilhelm Imaging Research). The Digital Preservation Coalition notes that printing digital records loses features such as relationships between files and searchability (DPC Topical Note 6). No US agency we read recommends printing as a preservation copy of personal digital photos, which is why this manual treats a print as a way to look, with the files kept as the record.

See it: Nadia, Leo and Ruth See it

Fictional example

Nadia Brooks is a fictional person; every fact about her is invented for this manual. Her iPhone library holds about 7,800 photos and 260 videos since 2019, now also exported to a 1 TB USB-C drive she bought this year, with a second drive at her sister Lila's.

Known: the export folder for 2023 shows names ending in .HEIC, .JPG, .PNG and .MOV. Assumed: that the iPhone is on High Efficiency. Settled by: Nadia, in Settings > Camera > Formats; it is. The JPEGs are photos saved from the family chat, and a few PNGs are screenshots. She writes "HEIC, JPEG, PNG, MOV" on the plan sheet and leaves the files as they are. She writes this year as "drive bought" for both drives, and five years on as "move by". She opens ten photos from the home drive, one from each year from 2019 to 2026 and two more from Theo's first year, plus one video. All open. She puts the yearly check in her calendar on the date she did it. Open: whether Lila's laptop opens HEIC, which matters only if Nadia sends files on a drive; Sharing photos settles how photos reach Lila.

Fictional example

Leo Tran (fictional) has a mirrorless camera that saves raw and JPEG pairs, about 3,400 raw files on his Windows laptop.

Known: each raw file has a JPEG twin with the same name. Decision: keep both, side by side, with the camera's names; the JPEG is for sharing and the raw for a later edit. Assumed: that the software he uses now will read his camera's raw format for years. Settled by: nobody in advance; each yearly check opens one raw file and tells him. Under that assumption, nothing needs converting now. NARA's plan to turn some raw formats into DNG is the option he would look at if a check failed.

Fictional example

Ruth Feldman (fictional) has three CD-Rs labeled "Photos 2004-2006". When she copied them (Getting photos out), two read and one failed on 41 files, which she took from her 2008 Windows tower instead.

Known: the photos are now in her Mac library and on her Time Machine drive. What the disc figures tell her: little. The CCI table depends on the dye and metal layer, which her labels do not say, and her discs are about twenty years old. What the case shows is the step she took: copy off old media while it reads. Open: the year her Time Machine drive was bought. Settled by: Ruth, from the receipt or the drive's box. Until then she writes "unknown" and sets the move-by to her next yearly check.

Pages to read alongside, each free:

Practice: the first yearly check Practice

Minimum: write the formats on the plan sheet and each drive's year on the backup sheet, and open ten photos from the oldest copy. Time: about 45 minutes. Materials: your oldest copy (usually a drive), the phone or computer you use now, the plan sheet, the backup sheet, the routine sheet and your calendar.

  1. Open one year's folder and read the extensions. Note every kind you see. Do the same for scans, if you have them.
  2. Write the formats on the plan sheet.
  3. Write each drive's purchase year and move-by year on the backup sheet; "unknown" if you do not know, with the next yearly check as move-by.
  4. Open ten photos from the oldest copy, spread across the years, plus one video, and one raw file and one scan if you have them. Write the date and the result.
  5. If anything fails to open, open the same file from another copy, and replace the bad one from the good one.
  6. Put the next yearly check in your calendar and tick "Open a sample from every copy" on the routine sheet.
Go deeper

Compare checksums for one folder. On a computer, make SHA-256 checksums for ten files in the library and the same ten on a backup drive, with the commands under Go deeper. Compare each pair and write "match" or the file names that differ on the test sheet.

Your photos Your photos

Check your work Check your work

Criteria

  • Does the plan sheet name every format in the library, scans and video included?
  • Are the originals unchanged, with edits and JPEG copies in separate files?
  • Does every drive on the backup sheet have a purchase year (or "unknown") and a move-by year?
  • Did ten photos, a video and any raw files open from the oldest copy, with the date written?
  • Is the next yearly check in the calendar and on the routine sheet?

Worked example

Nadia's plan sheet says "HEIC, JPEG, PNG, MOV". Her backup sheet shows both drives bought this year, move-by five years on. Her test sheet records ten photos and one video opened from the home drive, all fine, with the date. Her calendar has the same date next year. It passes. It does not say the drives will last five years; the move-by is a date to act, and the copy at Lila's covers a drive that fails first.

Common mistakes

  • Converting the whole library to JPEG "to be safe". It compresses every photo again and gains nothing the archives ask for.
  • Editing and saving over a JPEG original. Save the edit as a new file.
  • Renaming raw and JPEG pairs separately. The pair loses its link.
  • Reading a disc's or drive's life off a package. The figures are test estimates; the yearly check is the evidence.
  • Counting a printed album as a backup. It is a way to look, not a copy of the files.
  • Testing only the newest copy. The oldest copy is where trouble shows first.

What is still unresolved

Which formats will open in twenty years is not knowable now; the five-yearly check that every format still opens is how you find out in time. Whether you keep up the yearly check is the routine in Routines and handing on. How photos travel when you send them is in Sharing photos, and scan formats are in Prints, slides and negatives.

Knowledge check and scenario

Does opening, copying or captioning a JPEG lower its quality?
No. The Library of Congress's blog says the loss comes from modifying a JPEG and saving it, which compresses it again. Opening and copying change nothing, and captions change the file's header, not the pixels.
Why does this manual leave HEIC photos as HEIC?
The National Archives rates HEIC moderate risk and recommends leaving a HEIC that renders easily as it is; the Library of Congress does not tell anyone to convert. Converting to JPEG compresses each photo a second time. JPEG copies are made only for sharing.
Where does the five-year move-by come from, and what does it not mean?
The Library of Congress says to create new media copies every five years or when necessary. It is a date to act, not a promise that a drive lasts five years; a drive can fail sooner, which is what the second copy and the yearly check cover.
Why is a printed album not this manual's preservation copy?
NEDCC says color prints from digital files are not considered preservation quality, and IPI rates color and inkjet prints at risk at room temperature. A print also carries no file, date or caption unless written on it. It is a way to see and share the photos.
(Go deeper) Is MD5 good enough for checking a family library, and what would you compare?
The DPC says MD5 is sufficient for accidental damage; Microsoft says MD5 suits simple change checks but not protection from tampering. SHA-256 is the default in both the Windows and Mac tools. You compare the checksum of the same file in two copies; a mismatch means one has changed.
You copy a folder of iPhone photos to a drive for your brother. His older Windows laptop shows the HEIC files as blank icons and will not open them. What is the most reasonable response?
This recompresses every photo, replaces originals that open fine on your own devices, and is not what the National Archives or the Library of Congress advise. The problem is one laptop, not your library.
This is the manual's default: originals stay as they came, and the person who needs JPEG gets JPEG copies. His laptop's HEIC support is his to sort out if he wants it.
Reasonable if a device in your own household cannot open HEIC, and it changes new photos only. For a relative's laptop, JPEG copies when you share do the same job without changing how you take photos.

Checklist

Records your learning only; it is not a qualification.